Tuesday, May 17, 2011

Swaziland

Norriss and I left the country last weekend. We headed off to Swaziland, which is about a 5 hour drive from Johannesburg. The city, which is vase, sits at the 5,000 foot elevation;about the same altitude as Denver. We left South Africa by entering Swaziland which is a country surrounded by South Africa. I know it sounds a little strange but check out your map of South Africa it will clear things for you. Swaziland is the only country in the South African proper area that did not incorporate when South Africa was formed. They voted to remain a sovereign state. It has a king who rules over the many tribes in Swaziland. Their law states that the king may have as many wives as he wished but he must take a wife from a different tribe each time he marries and at this point he has 13 wives I believe. It may be an honour to marry the king but I was told that only the current wife lives a comfortable life or in the standard of the king. Most wives and children live in poverty just like the general populous.


Sister Blackburn visitng with members of the church.

Lady of the house and her daughter
Everyone helps bring in the water. Everyone has a job and a responsibility even
the little ones.

There are a couple of days a year when the people of this city dress in their
native costumes to celebrate their tribal traditions. This is a hunt on one of
those days.
The people in Swaziland are poor. The king lives in opulence and travels in grand fashion at great expense. He attended the Royal Wedding in England. When he was there he wore a suit and looked like any other visiting dignitary. When he is home and he meets his people or goes out among them he wears his native costume which is a skirt of sorts. He is bare chested and his legs are bare as well. He has a head dress. It is said that he is trying to keep his people uneducated because they are easier to control when they are ignorant. They're are rumblings of discontent, but for the most part these people are a peaceful lot. In the above picture you can see the king walking with his security squad. He walks about so his subjects can see how healthy and accessible he is. It is sad to think of how much of a difference a good king could make especially if he were like Mosiah or King Benjamin.

This is the school yard and the children are gathered around the water
pump in the school yard.

After the soccer game on Saturday afternoon everyone heads for the
local bathing spot to get ready for Sunday. This is the same spot where we saw families
doing their laundry earlier in the day.



This is the traditional way of cooking the families food. In the
winter food is cooked on the floor inside the house. The walls and windows
become black with the suet of the fire.


Families out gathering the wood for cooking and for warmth. Most everyone
walks where ever then have to go. Again everyone has a job and they carry according
to the ability.


Visiting with a family on the way to Swaziland.

This homestead is the one we saw on our way to Swaziland. It is situated not too far off the road in the middle of no where about 20 miles South of the South African boarder in Swaziland. There are no services anywhere to be seen. I saw no evidence of a car. How they made their living I do not know.







As we drove along the highway we passed sights straight out of the history books. We saw vistas and horizons of beauty that were intriguing to my mind and even spirit. Once we stopped to take a picture of a lovely valley with mountains beyond. It was only then we noticed that which was right in front of our view. There was a homestead, of sorts, with several houses. Most were dung houses with metal roofs. I noticed a round shaped building with reed roofing and was a taking pictures of it when the woman of the house came outside. I spoke with her for a bit and learned that this beautiful setting was a dismal home site as far as she was concerned. She told me that they had no water. That she had to go down the mountain side to the river at the bottom of the valley that lay below and haul her water from there. That meant water for washing, drinking and most importantly to her for the garden. She pointed to the dry ground in disgust and said it was not a good place to live. This was not a gentle slopping hillside it was a real hike up a mountain side hike. The men had chosen the site because of the view and because it was close to the road. They had fenced in the yards and built the home. This dear lady had had it. She spoke English very well, was well spoken and looked like a hard working young mother of 4. I could think of little to say that might be of encouragement. I wondered about the water storage units that might give her some aid, but where would these people get something like that? How would they ever get a well? There are many women who spend a large part of the day or night hauling water. It is not the job of men. The woman might work on the home site all day and then go fetch water a night. Some die coming and going because of the danger of cobras or cats.











When we take pictures of homes or children we give them coins as thanks. I also gave the children grapes. I believe it was the first time they had tasted the sweetness of grapes. They were very hesitant at first but after the first bit they nibbled each one with delight.


This is a man's work shop. He actually does his carvings here at the market.

They have wonderful roads but that is about the only thing that has kept up with the times. In fact going to Swazi is like taking a step back in time. Complete, with a more relax less stressful environment, at least for tourists. There is a peacefulness that left us wanting to spend more time in the quite solitude. There is one senior missionary couple who serve in Swaziland, the Blackburn's. Elder Blackburn is a councilor in the Mission Presidency and he and sister Blackburn are assign to Swazi. They live in a lovely home next to a garden nursery and their yard is complete with Monkeys and Cobras at varying times. They are fabulous people and have invited us back for a stay anytime. We didn't actually stay with them this time. We booked into a small retreat type place that was so quite and peaceful we all slept deep and well.


We went shopping, of course. There were a number of markets to which the Blackburns introduced us. They were so good to take the time. They love having visitors and usually take off the whole day, but this day they actually had a number of other things gong on as well and would lead us to the markets and then leave for a while to attend to the needs of the people with whom they work and then come back to get us.

The first market we went to had artisans working right on site. Wood carvers,candle makers, weavers, and painters. I found a shop where the woman take a piece of white cotton fabric, kind of like muslin, and use wax and dyes layering them in about 7 steps to create the most beautiful fabric art. I purchased a table cloth which we really enjoy. They use the dyes of vegetables and plants, the sun and air, and a lot of time to create wall hangings, pillow covers, table clothes, aprons, dressed and skirts place mates, the list goes on. You tell them what you want they could make it. I asked how long it would take to make a large table cloth with a certain pattern and they told me if the weather was right they could do it in a week. That would be a rush order or sorts. I found their work and the finished product absolutely fascinating.

We went to another market which reminded me of something I had read about in one of Steinbeck's books. The people were very nice, but wanted so to sell some of their wares. They were not pushy like the craft sellers in Joberg. They would wait patiently for me to show some interest and if I did not they looked dejected but said little if anything. We spent several hours with these people just walking through the market. Americans are pigeons at any market we go too. We do not know how to shop. The prices are raised sometimes 5Xs what a local would pay. Sister Blackburn knows the ropes and would tell us what a fair price would be and then the bargaining would begin.

We enjoyed our visit but I didn't really see anything I wanted to buy. I did purchase some little trinkets but the other sisters found a number of things they were persuaded they needed. Norriss found a brightly colored shopping bag that was woven out of plastic which he purchased to carry the few things I bought along with some oranges that I wanted. I also bought a sackful of beans one vendor was selling. I probably should have purchased some from each of the woman there so they would not be upset with the woman from whom I did buy. It is just so hard not too buy things knowing how very much our purchase might help them. Then again they know American and soft hearted and can be persuaded to do things against their own interest.

We left to go back to our hotel. I took some pictures of the gardens which I loved wandering. The rush of the big city left behind allowed us to slow down and enjoy. We met the Blackburns at a Chinese Restaurant for dinner where we sat outside and were very comfortable in the mild weather. After dinner we went back to the Blackburn's for dessert. Chocolate Sundays and biscuits (cookies). Sister Blackburn made fudge topping out of 2 chocolate bars, one light chocolate one dark, and a can on condensed milk. Can I just say the sauce was fabulous.

Breakfast the next morning was included in our hotel stay. They laid a feast before us complete with crumpets and cream, fruit, toast, omelets, french toast, cereal, and on and on. We felt the whole experience a very good choice.

Church was next with a small congregation which met in a chapel that appeared to be in the process of building. I suspect it had been slow going and that the building process began sometime ago. There was no bishop or branch president, there was an acting branch leader in charge who conducted the meeting. We got there early enough to visit with people as they came. The children were seated on the first two rows across the chapel. As in other South African wards we have attended these children were very well behaved. They sat with out apparent adult supervision so reverently and attentive and with such discipline that we could not help but be impressed. I sat and visited with a few of them and discovered that a 7 year old boy was the only one from his family there. He said his mother and sister would come along but that his dad had not yet seen a need for Jesus in his life. He said "he is taking his time". I was impressed with this young man who walked alone to church because the congregation had been asked to get to church on time and sit reverently and listen to the music which was played from the recorder. So young and yet he was spiritually older than his parents. He was very firm in his desire to be in church, to do what he had been asked to do and learn what God wanted him to learn.

The Primary president was a 21 year old woman who had been a member a little over a year. She has also recently applied for a Perpetual Education Loan. She asked to speak with us and we are always happy to visit and encourage the young adults in their pursuit of education. Some times it is very hard for these young people. It is the case in this area. There are only 2 computers in the whole mission. Most applications are done on the Internet. In the case of Swaziland we will have to send in hard copies. I am not sure who well it will work. There is so much follow up that needs to be done on computers that many get discouraged.

The little ward house shows the lack of electronics. There was no central sound system but some one had set up a portable microphone which had sound much of the time. The chapel did not have a piano, an organ, or a key board but the singing was enthusiastic, reverent and yet vigorous. A young woman stood before the congregation, began to sing stopped halfway through the first verse and then we all sang from the beginning. We just make do when something is lacking.

There was a baptismal font in the front yard that was a blue water storage tank that had been cut in half. Like every ward we have attended here in South Africa the people are full of love and welcome us with grace and hospitality.
We met an elderly man who acted as a security guard. At least he said he was. I am not sure if he is hired or self appointed. It is possible he was also looking to earn a little money acting as a parking attendant. He was very pleasant.

Much as we would have like to stay longer, we did have to leave for Johannesburg right after Sacrament Meeting. How very fortunate we are to be able to travel to so many interesting places.

The security in Swaziland is much different from Johannesburg. They just don't have the crime that Joburg has. There were no fences, no barbed wire. The cows and goats were not fenced. They wandered at will from pasture to pasture sometimes pausing in the road to watch the cars go by. Except for the fact that most people who live in Swaziland (which means paradise) are poor and there appeared to be no industry to support people it was truly lovely.

The boarder crossing was easier going back into South Africa was easier than going into Swaziland. It was also more colorful with road side veggie stands for any last minute buying.

2 comments:

  1. Len and I enjoyed reading about your adventures! What great pictures. Thanks for sharing.

    Love,
    Vic

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  2. Goodmorning everybody has had a great time reading about swaziland today before school. Matt printed out the picture of the king to take to his Geography teacher. The pictures were neat to see how other people live we miss you and love you. Hannah is impressed with how much you typed Grandma. We love you both have a great day and remember to wear your tie this weekend dad. Happy Father's Day
    Love,
    Liz M4++ GrAcIe H@nn@h:) LAYLaLaYLALAYLAlAylalaylalaylalaylalaylalaylalaylalaylalaylalaylalaylalaylalaylalaylalaylalay
    Mason

    ReplyDelete